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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.